Plitvice lakes
Plitvice Lakes are famous as one of the most beautiful natural sights, not only in Croatia but in the whole of Europe. It is not surprising that they started tourism here as far back as 1861. Since 1949, it has been the first national park in present-day Croatia, which has been inscribed on the UNESCO list of natural heritage since 1979. A movie about Winneto was filmed here in 1965. Legend has it that the place is called the Devil’s Garden and the origin is attributed to the Black Queen, who brought rain to the inhabitants and filled all the lakes.
The park is located in a hilly part of the Lika region among beech forests and since 1997 it occupies almost 300 square kilometers, where, in addition to the famous lakes, there is also rich flora and fauna. It can be accessed from the direction of Zagreb, Rijeka, Bihač, or Split. It consists of sixteen lakes of pastel blue-green color, which are interconnected by various waterfalls and are an exceptional example of the karst phenomenon of tufa formation on limestone soils. The lakes are divided into upper lakes (Prošćansko Lake, Ciganovac, Okrugljak, Batinovac, Veliko jezero, Malo jezero, Vir, Golovac, Milino jezero, Jezerce, Burgeti and Kozjak) and lower lakes (Milanovac, Gavanovac, Kuleđerovac and Novakovića Brod). The park ends with the Great Waterfall, which is 78 m high. From here on the Korana River flows.
There are several different and well-marked trails that take us on routes of varying lengths (4 km in 2h to 19 km in 10h). Each option includes various means of transport from walking on groomed paths and footbridges, riding a ‘train’ and/or a boat. Before you buy a ticket, check with the park guides which option is currently possible.
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My experience
In the early hours, I set off from a picnic in a hut from the hills north of Postojna. The basic idea was to go to Barbariga. When I got to Postojna, I decided to go over Rijeka through Pivka and Ilirska Bistrica. They hardly let me pass at the border. I was vaccinated with AstraZeneca 1 month ago. This is enough for Slovenia, but in Croatia 1 vaccination is enough only with Johnson & Johnson. The lady at customs told me that and I started arguing. She stopped me quickly and I apologized. In the end, the lady took pity on me and let me cross the border. At a gas station with an ideal view, I fall asleep briefly in the car. I got inspired not to go directly to Istria but to see something beforehand. I browsed the net a bit and chose Plitvice Lakes.
After 2 and a half hours of driving and I parked a little after 9am. Half of the route was along the highway, the other part is more active between Josipdol and Slunj. Upon arrival, I park at the second entrance (the parking fee is 10 HRK per hour). The parking lot is not the best arranged on uneven terrain. The ticket for the park in the low season is 80 HRK. It is best to buy a ticket online so they don’t run out of them. The day was beautiful and sunny. After talking to the guide, I choose route H, which is modified (walk instead of long ride by boat) about 12 km long.
From the parking lot, you walk (10 minutes) to the S2-Hladovina entry point. From here we drove down the canyon by train (we all wore masks), where we can already admire the lakes through the non-leafed trees while driving. After getting off the train, it was time for a walk. Most of the trail is a footbridge above the water. I started at the Upper Lakes.
From Proščansko Lake I continued along the path past smaller lakes and various forms of cascades and waterfalls, which are constantly alternating. I arrive at the ship dock. Since there is no long drive, in 2 minutes I just crossed to the opposite bank by boat. Now It was time for a hike along the largest lake Kozjak. The lake is beautiful, but I definitely recommend a boat ride for this route, if possible. In the area of the lower lakes, there is the Great Waterfall and a couple of cascades. The trail ends with a steep ascent along serpentines. From here, beautiful panoramic views of the Lower Lakes and the Great Waterfall are possible.
A few more hundred meters is needed before arriving at the train station. While I’m waiting at the station, I drank juice in the Rapajnik café bar (20 HRK for a juice bottle – payment only with a card). One last effort is needed when getting off the train, 10 minutes uphill to the parking lot. Have a card with you so that you can pay the parking fee (40 HRK for 4 hours) on the way to the car.
Tired but satisfied, I set off towards Barbariga. But I choose a different path on my return. I paused at Senj. I made a stop at the Nehaj fortress, where I have a late lunch. But now is really the time to go to Barbariga, where I arrive in the evening. 12 hours later, about € 70 easier if I count all the costs (entrance fee, parking fee, tolls, petrol, lunch, drinks,…) but richer for a beautiful experience.
When to visit the park?
Try to be in the park as early as possible to avoid the heat and crowds. The spring is warm enough and the greenery has not yet covered certain views. Summer is hot and full of tourists and prices are higher. Autumn colors the leaves in shades of orange and they are a nice contrast to the blue-green lakes. Winter offers frozen lakes and waterfalls, which is a special experience. Always wear appropriate footwear, the path is not strenuous but certain parts are damp and there is a possibility of slipping, have crampons in winter.
