Eastern Caribbean in 2024

I had been planning island hopping in the Eastern Caribbean (Lesser Antilles) for some time. Finally, I got an option to realize it. This trip included visiting some friends in England on my way there, 4 days on a cruise ship, twice on a ferry, and 10 flights.

Daily review

• Day 1 – Ljubljana to London
• Day 2 – London to Manchester
• Day 3 – Manchester to Bridgetown
• Day 4 – Bridgetown
• Day 5 – Bridgetown boarding ship
• Day 6 – Kingston, St.Vincent
• Day 7 – St.George’s, Grenada
• Day 8 – at sea
• Day 9 – Fort-de-France, Martinique
• Day 10 – Martinique to St.Lucia
• Day 11 – Castries, St.Lucia
• Day 12 – St.Lucia to Dominica
• Day 13 – Dominica to Antigua
• Day 14 – Antigua to St.Kitts & Navis
• Day 15 – St Kitts to Trinidad
• Day 16 – Trinidad to Barbados
• Day 17 – Manchester to Ljubljana over Venice

People

In general, I had no bad experiences, just a few great ones. The first part was the UK before the real trip started, with a visit to friends and some touristic and crowded places. Caribbean in general had a good relaxed vibe. Most people were helpful and with some, we had some good moments. Just a few were with bad energy or too stoned/drunk. Also, fellow travelers were a great chance for interesting talk. People on the islands speak English (except Martinique French) and Creol. It is hard sometimes to understand the dialect. Most of the people are descendants of slaves from Africa. You have here descendants from colonial powers (UK, France, Netherlands, Spain), descendants from indigenous people, and people with roots from Asia (India, China, Arabs). Most people are Christians (Protestants and Catholics).

UK

The main people were great with me: Barbara&Mike – hosted me, drove me around and we saw a football match, brought me my warm clothes. Rob in London – nice talk with a drink. Other interactions were nice, Italian girls at the airport, the receptionist, and people in the bar. Less enjoyable were tourists at the main attractions, cold fans at the game, and one security guy at the airport.

Barbados

A great people experience was meeting two Fabians with their friends, who hung with me for two nights and drove me around. There were two tourists from Canada, nice talk. The rest of the people were OK, from receptionist, barmen, driver. Less enjoyable was one waitress and one security guy.

Cruise ship

Knut from Norway was a great discovery on this travel, with lots of travel experience and many interesting stories. A nice time during dinners was spent with two girls from the States, Demi and Elis. Gavin from the UK and Marcos from Brazil were my parting buddies. Some other encounters were good. The staff on the boat were helpful, especially Willson.

Martinique

I spent most of my time with Knut (botanical garden and dinner). Some Serbian guys at dinner brought some diversity.

St. Lucia

In the beginning, a taxi was pushy and the landlord was late, but that brought me to Keith who made a call for me, we had a drink, went to the beach close by and he drove me to the city once. During the night people partied, but some were waisted too much.

Dominica

Jessy from Germany and Matteo from Italy were great for the travel talk. Kevin at the accommodation prepared a good meal and found a driver. The driver was ok. At the airport, they tried to help when I was late but they were not too efficient.

Antigua

I had some a bad experience with dogs. The owner of the accommodation was helpful, taxi drivers were OK. The bars I visited were from small to fancy and the last one was dodgy in the end.

St. Kitts & Nevis

On Nevis, one guy would follow me for 1 km, and one drunk girl would try to explain to me islands. On St Kitts at bus station was dodgy but the people were nice. Also when I locked myself out people helped.

Trinidad

The receptionists, a taxi driver, and people in the bar were ok.

Venice

Some nice talk with Italians, Iranians, and Chinese while we were waiting in the cold for a bus that was more than an hour late.

Transport

Again in 17 days moved around with different means of transport and made around 20.000 km (half the circumference of the earth at the equator).

Flight

On this trip, I was on 10 flights + 1 extra (missed) and 2 extra stopovers. The first (Ljubljana-London Gatwick, 10:30-11:50, 1550km, Airbus 319, 41€), and the last flight (Manchester-Venice, 15:40-19:00, 1400km, Airbus 319, 59€) was by Easyjet, after a long time. There were no surprises, budget flight, cramped leg space, and expensive beer (7€ Punk IPA). As for airports: Ljubljana-Brnik is a nice small airport, with some traffic as there were few flights then. London-Gatwick, big, problem with transport after bomb threat. Manchester, terminal for budget flights was overcrowded. Venice-Marco Polo, nice, nothing to report.

Flight London-Heathrow to Manchester (10:00-11:00, 250km, 53€-cheaper than train) with British Airways was good, ok leg space, got water and biscuits, some turbulence at landing. Heathrow is a huge airport and Manchester is 3rd in the UK, this terminal was better but in the renovation.

Flight with Virgin Atlantic from Manchester to Barbados (12:00-17:10, 6700km, Airbus 330) and back (20:30-8:55) was 615€. Service on the way there was surprisingly great, also had 4 seats for myself. On the way back it was not that great experience. Barbados Airport is middle-sized, partially open-air, and crowded on the way back. Manchester terminal for this flight was ok.

Five flights for island hopping were on smaller plains with smaller airports and the price was between 120 and 235 €. St.Lucia-Dominica with InterCaribbean (11:40-12:30, 170km, ATR 42, 195€). Dominica-Antigua with Sunrise Airways (web page not working always) over St.Kitts (14:45-16:30, 190km, EMBRAER 120, 235€, I missed a flight with Caribbean Airlines, because the flight was moved 30 minutes earlier, 165€). Antigua-St.Kitts with Winair (08:15-08:45, 105km, ATR 42, 120€). St.Kitts-Trinidad with Caribbean Airlines(11:40-15:05, 760km, ATR-72, 150€). And last one Trinidad-Barbados with Caribbean Airlines (13:05-14:05, 330km, ATR-72, 148€). As for airports, St Lucia has a micro airport, and across the street, you have a beach. Dominica has a small airport, not too efficient. Antigua has a surprisingly nice airport as St Kitts does. Trinidad has a medium, not a nice airport.

Train and metro

On rails, I was just in London, two times (2.9€ and 3.4€) on the metro and one train to Heathrow airport (16€). Now you can pay with a debit/credit card and don’t need an Oyster card. There are some tourist trains in Barbados and St. Kitts, but that is not my cup of tea.

Taxi/Car

My sister drove me to the airport in Ljubljana. From Gatwick airport, I shared Uber (40€). Mike picked me up at the airport, drove me to the game, took me to the airport, brought me clothes, and moved me to another terminal in Manchester. I owe him big time here. Uber we used to return from the game in Manchester. In Barbados, Fabian drove me around for two nights, big thanks. In Grenada, I used a taxi to go around the island, 100 XCD (35 €). From port to Fort de France with Kluts owner to accommodation. Keith drove me to the city so I don’t miss a flight. Taxi from port to accommodation in St Lucia, 25XCD (9 €) and 2 days later to airport 10$. Also, a taxi to volcanic pools from town was 100 XCD (35 €). I was overcharged. In Dominica taxi from the airport 40$ and the next day 80$ for the drive to the waterfall and around local roads to the airport. In Antigua in the evening taxi to the apartment for 25XCD (9 €) and the next day to the airport for 30XCD (11 €). In Trinidad taxi from the airport to the hotel and then to the beach, waited there and took me back for 120$. Next morning to the airport for 35$. The last move was with a taxi from the bus station in Ljubljana to home for 8€.

I had the luck that friends drove me a good portion of my path. Uber in the UK was expensive. Also on islands, this was by far the most expensive option, but with time pressure I used it more than usual.

Bus/Van

The first bus was in Barbados, from the airport to Bridgetown 5XCD (less than 2€). In St Lucia, I took a bus twice to the city, 5XCD (less than 2€). There I took a bus to volcanic pools, 25XCD (9 €) one way. In Fort de France, I used the bus to the botanical garden for 2.5€. For the ride back, I didn’t pay anything. From Venice, I should have been picked up by shuttle, but they forgot about me, 28€. Instead, Andreja reserved a ticket for Flixbus, 45€ (shuttle company paid). This bus was almost 2 hours late.

Most public transport is privately owned vans with special plates that will move from the first station when they are full. This is the cheapest option, but slowest and least comfortable.

Boat

It was my first time on a cruise ship. The route was from Bridgetown, Barbados to Fort de France, Martinique. Stopped in St Vincent and Granada on our way. It lasted 5 days, 4 nights. I took a room with a window but I was upgraded for free to a room with a balcony. I paid 365 € for the room (410$), an extra 225 € for the basic drinks (196$) and the internet package (56$). This was a great experience and the best option for my plan to visit 8 islands. For this money, I got accommodation, transport, food and drinks. Probably just flights would cost this amount.

By ferry, I moved from Fort de France to St Lucia for 79 €, chaotic check-in process and people got sick on the boat. Also, I used a ferry between St.Kitts and Navis, one way ticket was 30+1XCD (11 €).

Walking

As on most of my trips, I walked on this one as well. I walked around 136 km in 17 days (average 8km/day). I usually would walk even more, but I spent a big portion of my time on some kind of transportation. With a minimum on a cruise ship at sea (almost 5 km) and max 20 km in St Kitts and Navis. Most of the islands were hilly so that meant some steep hills and a lot of stairs. Also during the night, there were lots of dogs. On one walk in Antigua, I was almost bit by a dog. When in the tropical region be prepared for often short showers, but you can stop under a roof for 5 minutes or even walk in the rain as it is 30 Celsius. Humidity is a problem there. It will make you breathe harder, and sweat a lot (potential blisters).

Accommodation

In London, I paid 84€ for a room in a 2-star Macdonald Hotel close to Kings Cross. It was a good option for this expensive city. In Manchester, I stayed in Barbara and Mike’s new home. In Bridgetown, I found a cheap Mariner Motel. I paid 89€ for two nights for a room with a bathroom and AC. I spent the next four nights on a cruise ship in a great room, cleaned each day twice. In Fort de France I got a good “Belle Vue” apartment in the center for 65€. In Castries, I paid 104 € for two nights for a room with a bathroom in a Marvey’s Place house outside town. In Dominica, I stayed in a Danglez Bed & Breakfast located in the Kalinago territory. For a room with a shared bathroom, I paid 30€. In Antigua, my first option was canceled on the last day. So I picked a renewed J & B Studio Apartment outside St John’s for 87€. I got a refund forthe price change by Booking after some communication with them. In Basseterre, I got a room at a great location in 3-star Seaview Inn for 83€. In Trinidad, I was at a Caribbean Tourist Villa with a pool for 56€. The last two nights I spent on an airplane and bus.

670 for accommodation + portion of cruise expenses 200 €. 870€ for a 17-day vacation, which is a bit over 50€ per night with one night at a friend’s and two nights on the flight. UK is expensive and in the Caribbean, there are not many cheap options.

Food and drinks

In the UK I ate the first day in London homemade sandwiches and in Manchester had breakfast at Barbara’s place and ate chips (7€) with cheese at the Etihad Stadium and at McDonald’s after the game (20€ for two). Food on long-haul flight was good enough.

Caribbean food in general is a mixture of local ingredients like (plantains, maize, beans, cocoa, tomato, bell pepper, and chili) and those brought up here for cultivation (rice, chickpea, eggplant, onion, garlic, coconut). Different cuisines also influenced local meals, from indigenous, European, African, south Asia, Chinese, and Arab. There are many fast-food places where locals eat and that is cheap. But soon as you go to restaurants prices will go up. The cheapest was some kind of snack in St Lucia for 3€ and the most expensive was a BBQ with a few beers for 60€.

As for drinks most of the time I drank water, a few teas, and cokes. As for alcoholic beverages, I tried many different beers, in most places I visited I tried at least one beer (prices ranged from 1$ to 10 €, a few rums (Mount Gay-Barbados, one was free, other was 5$), wine (free at dinner) and cocktails (on boat free and 11€).

Sights

In London, I was twice before for a week and I didn’t wish to visit anything, just to have a beer with Rob. But in the end, I walked around all the central sights (Harrod’s, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Trafalgar Square, Big Ben and the London Eye). I went to the London Eye just to try one Ferris Wheel, 35 € (29 GBP). Nice view of London at dusk, but crowded.

In Manchester, it was all about visiting Barbara and Mike. I squized in a football match at Etihad stadium, Manchester City vs Tottenham (0:4), paid 160 € for a ticket.

In the Eastern Caribbean, most of the islands are volcanic in origin (except Barbados). That means rugged terrain, high peaks, and most of the islands’ surface is covered with forests, and have a similar climates. That means you had similar things to see on all of the island. Here are the main spots:

• Old colonial capital towns (old colorful houses, I missed just one in Dominica)
• Church (most people are Christians: Catholics and protestants, one in Martinique and StVincent are a bit special)
• Fort (usually you would go uphill to fort for a nice view, Bridgetown, Kingstown, St George’s, Fort de France, Navis)
• Beach (on the Caribbean side I visited 10 beaches, on the Atlantic side is a rough sea with cliffs)
• Marine life (many places to snorkel, but I tried a submarine in Barbados, 96$; I missed Grenada underwater park)
• Vegetation (visited botanical garden in Kingstown 5XCD and Martinique 16€)
• Waterfalls (visited in Grenada – Annadale Falls 10XCD and Dominica – Emerald pool 16XCD)
• Volcanic places (done bath in sulphur springs in St. Lucia, 10 USD)
• Indigenous people at Kalinago territory in Dominica, 10 USD
• Museums (in London most museums are free and visited already few of them, in the Caribbean they are small and present local history and culture, didn’t visit)

Weather

When I left Ljubljana there was snow. London, Manchester, and on return Venice were also cold. So I had warm clothes that I left in Manchester and on return, Mike brought them to the airport.

In the Caribbean weather is tropical, warm (30 Celsius during the day, a few degrees less during the night), and humid (80%). Almost each they would be at least one short shower. That would mean just stopping under some roof for 5 to 15 minutes or even walking in the rain if it was lighter. Water temperature is 26-28 degrees, colder are rivers with waterfalls.

Budget

On this trip, I used different currencies. € was used in Martinique (France), the airport in Ljubljana and Venice. In the UK I used GBP (1€=0.83 GBP. Most of the islands (St. Vincent and Grenadine, Grenada, St. Lucia, Dominica, Antigua and Barbuda, St. Kitts and Navis) had the same currency, East Caribbean dollar XCD (1€=3XCD). In Barbados, they have their dollar BBD (1€=2BBD). Similar in Trinidad and Tobago TTD (1€=7TTD).

I took my debit/credit cards (ATM and payments). You can not pay in small shops and distant places by card. When you take cash from an ATM it charges you an extra 5.5$. Also, I had some cash (1000 USD-can be used in most islands, 500 EUR, 500 GBP). Most of the cash I brought back home. When paying in USD they give you 10-30% higher price.

Transport costs were 2941€ (1781€ flights, 406€ taxi, bus 52€, boat 702€). By far this was the biggest item in my budget. You should take into account that cruise expenses are included also accommodation and food/drinks. On flights, I could cut costs by flying from London and a missed flight was 235€. Most of the taxi rides could have been avoided if I had more time. With these things in mind, transportation would be 1000€ less.

Accommodation costs were 870€ (670€ for accommodation + a portion of cruise expenses 200 €). 50€ per night is as low as it is possible. Maybe there is a margin in a few hostels that could be found on a cruise room without windows and shared with someone.

The food and drinks cost was 400€ without all the beer I had. In England, I had some sandwiches and ate at Barabara’s place. 4-5 days I ate mainly on a cruise ship. On a cruise, 300 € was for food and drinks. On the islands, I had mainly fast-food kind of meals with few exceptions (per meal 5-15€). As for drinks, tap water was ok in most places. I boiled and cooled it in Antiqua before drinking. As for beer, it was from a few $ up to 100 $ per day, but this cost I will not count it in the budget.

Sights were mostly free. But few of them I paid a hefty amount. So I spent around 350€, more than half in the UK. London Eye – 35 €. Gamein Manchester 160€ Submarine – 96 USD. Botanical garden in St. Vincent 5XCD. Waterfall in Grenada 10XCD. Botanical garden in Martinique 16€. Waterfall in Dominica 16XCD.

Other costs were 80€ would include souvenirs, lighter, and cigarettes (one box from 2.5 to 10 €).

The total amount was above 4.500€. But here are included costs of visiting friends in the UK (500€+). The next unnecessary cost was extra drinks onthe cruise ship 200 €. Also, a missed flight added 235 €. There were also other costs that were not necessary ( submarine, taxi, …). I think if someone would focus just on island hopping budget could be inside 3000€.

Visa/Telecommunication

As a citizen of Slovenia (a member of the EU) I didn’t need a visa to enter any of the visited countries on this trip.

• UK – passport needed, migration line UK+EU, but soon we will need ETA even if we just transit country
• Barbados – you need to fill immigration form, It is possible to do it online or upon arrival at a self-service terminal.
• St.Vincent and The Grenadines – it is similar (online), but for cruise ship, you don’t need even that
• Grenada – as previous
• Martinique – as part of France (an EU member) I didn’t need to do anything
• St. Lucia – I arrived by ferry, and got the form on board, for flights you have an online form
• Dominica – flew there, got online form, possible on arrival
• Antigua and Barbuda – filled out form on arrival
• St Kitts and Navis – filled form on arrival or online
• Trinidad and Tobago – filled out form on arrival
• Italy – part of the EU, no problems

Customs – on the same form on arrival, you also enter data for customs. You should be careful with some items like specific animals or plants (parts), a limited amount of cash, tobacco, and alcohol products.

Security checks – you should be prepared, don’t have items you can’t go through in your carry-on (big liquid bottles, knives, …), and take out laptops, and liquids less than 100ml in a transparent bag (some airports let you leave them inside), belt, shoes in most Caribbean, lighter – took 2 from me. Out of 10 flights I was put on the side 3 times, one was thorough check of my bag (took my lighters), one was just to see the camera, and one was just some chemical check. I had to delete one photo from my phone taken close to the security area (even from deleted items).

Having internet is now important while traveling. The easiest solution is to use eSIM, such as Airalo. But I have an old phone that doesn’t support that. In the UK I wanted to buy a package from my provider, but I had some problems, so I used public WiFi even though it is not too expensive to use roaming for Slovenian subscribers. On islands, it was similar, I used Wifi in accommodation, and prepared before going out. Some bars/restaurants had Wifi, but not all. On a cruise ship, I bought a package for 56$, slow internet but enough for planning, not for video. Martinique as part of France meant I could freely use roaming. Italy was the same.

Sockets for electricity – 11 visited countries had 3 different plugs. EU is mostly type C/E, Islands had mostly A/B and UK had G. So I suggest taking one universal plug with you.