Venice and Trieste

Because of the Covid-19, I am not moving anywhere, my vacation has failed and I had it. I was looking for alternatives to where I could go on a weekend trip. The idea for Venice got chosen. My niece should have gone there for a gold reading badge but the Covid-19 prevented it. My nephew was there last year, but he also wanted to join a trip. I was there 10 years ago after returning from Mali during the carnival and would also like to see Venice in a new light. On Wednesday, the idea was born for the first time, on Thursday we decided to go and I only had Friday left to plan this trip. I didn’t exactly do a good job with the plan.

Trip

To Venice

We agreed to start early and have more of a day. We started a little before 5 am, it was quite painful to get up. I took the car from my sister so the kids could sleep on our way, each in their own row. On the way to Venice it was a quiet drive. On the Slovenian side, there was fog from Postojna to Razdrto, I went to petrol stations near Vipava (€ 18) and they were repairing the road just before Nova Gorica. On the Italian side, it was dawn with first light, the road was empty, wide and good, somewhere in between they were repairing it (10.4 toll).

Entering city

After a bit more than 2.5 hours we arrived in Venice. I parked at the beginning of town, Tronchetto (€ 21 for the whole day).

We move to the city by People mover train (1.5 € per ride per person, I thought it was included in the daily ticket, it was not possible to print tickets there, the purchased tickets did not all work?).

It took us to Piazzale Roma, which is a kind of entry hub to the west of the city. Close to parking, port, bus station and train a bit further.

North part of town

A few minutes before 8 o’clock we found ourselves in the city and it was necessary to decide how to start our day. I decided that while the city is empty, we should walk around the northern part of the city, from there we went to Burano and Murano and spend the afternoon with the main sights around St. Mark’s Square.

So we spent the next 2 hours walking around the neighborhoods of Santa Croce, Cannaregio and Sao Polo. After the first contact with the canals, we moved along one of the rare green areas in the city, park Giardini Papadopoli to the Grand Canal overlooking the Ponte della Costituzione, the Ponte degli Scalzi and train station.

There we turn inland and discover small alleys, canals, squares and smaller churches. There are few people, mostly locals who go on errands, we even meet a couple of joggers. The city is dominated by two smells, bakery goods and the smell of canals. After we pass three bakeries, the fourth entices us and we treats ourselves to a croissant with chocolate and jam (€ 1.10). The locals rubbed in the bakery but the next one was empty. It soon became clear why, there the prices were 5x higher.

After an hour we make our way to the Rialto and cross to Cannaregio. Instead of going directly to the pier where we would catch a Vaporetto (boats that serve as a bus on the water; the name comes from the steamers that once drove on these routes), we go for another one-hour walk west all the way to the Jewish quarter. Here the channels are longer, even and parallel. Although it is more than 9 o’clock in the morning, we are completely alone in a section where the silence is disturbed only by seagulls. Before the Covid-19 a difficult-to-imagine scenario. Along the way, we see Hasidic Jews, churches, and many seagulls.

We finally arrive at F.te Nova, a boat pier. I run around exchanging a voucher for tickets(€ 20 daily ticket), but I manage to finish right in time to catch vaporetto 12 at 10:10. The weather is hot and humid, after 2 hours I am already quite sweaty. On the boat we decide to visit Burano first, unlike most who go to Murano first. We drive past the cemetery of San Michele, Murano and Mazzorbo. There is enough space on the boat to sit for a 45 minute drive.

Burano

Upon arrival in Burano, it is immediately clear that tourists are already here. We head along the main path to Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi. We buy water (0.5 l for 1 €). On the way back, we avoid the main paths and look for more hidden corners. The island impresses me with its colorfulness and scent of lavender. The houses were once supposed to be painted in strong colors to make it easier for the fisherman to find them in the fog on their return. The island is also known for lace, which is sold everywhere on the island. There is also a lace museum. When we get back to the starting point, we decide to head back to Murano (11:25).

Murano

A half-hour drive to Murano follows. There are even more people here. We ate a homemade sandwich with breaded chicken. We walked around the island, in all shops they are selling glassware. In one of the shops, they also offer a workshop tour (5 € per person, without invoice).

While we are there maestro made a horse and a glass jar, the process is interesting to see. 6 glasses cost € 400. After a short walk, where we smelled corn, we decided to return to Venice, because the canals are uninteresting and the houses are not as colorful as in Burano, nor are they as magnificent as in Bentke.

With vaporetto around

Vaporetto 12 escapes us by split second while we are waiting in a crowd with people going to Burana. Now we have to wait 20 minutes in the sun for Vaporetto 4.1. Previously, the idea on the way back to the north of Venice was to go down to St. Mark’s Square and in the meantime go to a lookout point and see 2 churches. However, the children were tired, waiting in the sun hit us hard. So a change of plan, slowly (90 minutes) we went to the market with a Vaporetto and had time to rest and see a lot along the way. From the dirty and decaying part of the Murano to the Grand Canal, the port, and the neighborhoods of Dorsaduro and Giudecca.

St. Marco square

At the exit it is clear that we are approaching the main attraction, there are more and more tourists. We also succumb and buy some souvenirs, 2.5 l water is € 3. From the pier, we moved inland to the square, in between we meet a lot of Slovenes, probably a guided group. There are plenty of restaurants and shops along the way.

We finally enter the square, where it is really fascinating with everything that surrounds it from the basilica, palace, library, museum, tower, pillars, clock … We want to eat a sandwich, but they warn us that seagull and pigeons are aggressive and advise against it. In the next 3 hours we are in the Correo Museum and the Doge’s Palace. Time passes quickly while we walk around the beautiful rooms lavishly furnished. Here you get a sense of the importance of the decisions that have been made here.

To car

Although we still have some time and a lot of options to see, we said to ourselves that it was enough. One last walk and on Vaporetto 1 along the Grand Canal to the starting point, Piazzale Roma, with People mover back to the car park. I’m looking for a cash register to pay the parking fee and we’re already driving home. In the meantime, I miss the junction to Mestre, but I quickly get back on the highway.

Trieste

The next stop is Trieste because the kids weren’t there yet and to see where their grandfather’s family had a store in Trieste. The ride took 2.5 hours. There was a traffic jam at the entrance to the city. Navigation took me through really steep and narrow streets. I had an idea to park on the coast but it was really jammed there. After a few attempts, where I almost give up, I find a place. We walked to Unity Square from there to San Nicolo Street, where the store was. There, after a busy day, I indulge in beer and cigarettes. When we got some rest we walked to Piazza del Ponte Rosso, the place where the market flourished in the ’80s. It was interesting how lively the city was at that hour of the night.

On way home

It was time to head home. We go to the car and turn on the navigation. Hell begins here, it took me through the most impossible streets, steep and narrow, cars from the other direction in between, I could barely climb to the top of the hill. From there it was just driving to Ljubljana, but I was already quite tired, so I drive moderately. We refueled at Barje and we were already at home (23:15). I quickly unpacked, took a shower (it was necessary), att something and wento to sleep.

Summary

The day was full, tiring, and quite interesting. I hope that the passengers liked it and it was not too hard (more than 20 km of walking) and that we will go somewhere else together. It was definitely nice to go somewhere for a change, without too much planning. However, next time, it would be better to be able to plan a little more. That would be more cost-effective and we would see more. The alternative is to go without any plans, where there are no expectations and it can be interesting.

Costs

All together it amounted to a little less than € 300, € 100 per person. Not too much, but it could be more optimal.

60% of the costs are related to transport. € 60 of petrol is too much because I returned a full tank, which was not the case at the beginning. A toll of € 22 is a necessary expense. Parking for € 21 and next with People mover € 9, a total of € 30, is too much but it seemed optimal at the time. € 60 for 3 daily tickets is a must if you also want to see Murano and Burano.

30% of the cost is for tickets. 5 € for blowing glass is a good price. The almost € 80 I paid for the daily pass, which included several places, did not pay off this time. The reason is that I didn’t plan well. I didn’t count on the kids are not able to keep up with my pace. Opening hours were short, sometimes from 10:30 to 16:00. Based on the above data, the sequence of visits should be different.

10% of the remaining cost for drinks is expected.

Transport

It is possible to get to Venice from Ljubljana by:

• own car, an interesting choice if more people are traveling, it is necessary to take into account the cost of parking
  • advantages: flexibility (time, route, exemptions, …), price (if more people)
  • disadvantages: driver limited (tired, not allowed to drink,sleep, …), price (if less people)
• regular bus (omio, flixbus),
  • advantages: price (20-30 €)
  • disadvantages: only a few lines available (crown)
• agency
  • advantages: no liability, cheap (50 €, with coupons even less)
  • weaknesses: no freedom,
• by train, there have been no direct connections for several years, possibly via Austria
  • advantages: none
  • weaknesses: expensive, slow
• boat, today possible due to Covid-19 (Piran or Pula 75 €)
  • advantages: ship experience
  • disadvantages: duration, price, a distance of the initial location
• by plane, there are no flights from Ljubljana, but we often fly from Slovenia from Venice Airport and it is possible to visit the city
  • benefits: include a city visit along the way
  • disadvantages: fatigue, transportation extra cost

Parking

In case we are traveling by car, this is a cost that needs to be taken into account and planned in advance. Also, make a purchase/reservation online. Important factors that will influence the decision are parking time and distance (influences price and time). Below are some of the options:

• Punta Sabbioni (7 € daily, cheapest, N of laoon – 1h+ vaporettom to town, thanx Majda T for idea)
• Venice San Marco (32 € per day, nearest, most expensive)
• Venice San Andrea (€ 7 for 2 hours, best for short stops
• Venice Tronchetto (21 € per day, additional cost for people mover 1.5 € per trip if you do not go on foot)
• Mestre train station 2.5 € per hour or 15 € per day, another 1.5 train and extra time)
• Mestre San Guliano (6 hours for € 8, € 12 per day, walk to the station and € 1.5 for bus and extra time)
• airport (more options, you can also Treviso airport, you can park next to the airport, transport by boat or bus, too many different combinations to describe. Mentioned only as an option if you include a visit to the city after the flight)

Food and drinks

The price range in the city is enormous. You can get a slice of pizza for € 2 or head to a restaurant with Michlin stars, which will cost you a couple of hundred euros. Already my example of croissants in neighboring bakeries and five times the price is telling enough. It’s similar to drinks. My suggestion is to find a place where the locals are and not too close to St. Mark’s Square. There you will get solid quality for not too high a price. The cheapest option is to bring something to eat and drink with you. But if you need to impress a girl, invest in something more expensive 🙂

7 sights

The city as a whole is one big museum. Therefore, if you just come to the city and just walk the streets all day and cross the canals you will be richer for one wonderful experience. The highlight here is of course St. Mark’s Square with everything that surrounds it. Which of the facilities you will also visit inside depends on your preferences. Listed below is a ranking according to my preferences

1. the whole city of Venice
2. St. Mark’s Square
3. Burano
4. Doge’s Palace
5. Grand Canal and Rialto Bridge
6. Correr Museum
7. Murano

Itenirary suggestion

After my 2 different visits to this place, I would suggest for the first visit the schedule below. When I go there again, I will go more specific place to a certain event, visit, or similar.

• Early arrival in the city, preferably around 7 am
• First visit to Burano, in the morning light to observe the colorful facades
• This is followed by a visit to Murano, a visit to the workshop by blowing glass until it is crowded
• Return to Venice around 10:30
• Over the next 2 hours, slowly descend to St. Mark’s Square, in between a tour of the Rialto and 2 churches of your choice. You should have a snack on the way
• 3 hours are enough to thoroughly look at two other sights on St. Mark’s Square in addition to the square itself (my suggestion is a palace and a museum)
• In the late afternoon, look for a quiet place to enjoy the view before heading home

Covid-19

In fact, it is known that there is less attendance at the time of the crown and there are no endless crowds. Which is good for those of us who went anyway. This can be observed on several things. Eg. the tax they wanted to introduce in Venice in 2020 is gone. Parking is also available on the last day. You experience that you are actually alone on the street in Venice. Otherwise, the surroundings of the square are quite crowded. Less than last year when the nephew or 10 years ago pieces m was at the time of the carnival. Masks are worn by everyone indoors and on vehicles. Maybe they’re not over their noses all the time because in this heat, the mission was impossible. But an employee came to fix it. I had 3 masks myself and I changed them when one rattle was too wet. Disinfectants were available in churches, every other seat was available. The museums had a limited number of visitors per space, with temperature control at the entrance. In short, people stick to what is prescribed most of the time and the crowds are not opaque. However, this was the place for me were the biggest likelihood of infection so far.