Bernina railway and around

Bernina is one of the best scenic train rides in the world, located in the Alpes, starting in Swiss and ending in Italy. I had that in mind for some time but didn’t happen before.

Job at Slovenian Railways has many perks, one is almost free train travel around Europe. I will explain this in detail later. I didn’t use that option first two years but now it was a great chance to combine it with a holiday and an obligatory vacation day.

I planned to take it slowly and extend it to 4.5 days instead of 2 days of intense travel. I would make short stops in Austria, Germany, Swiss and Italy.

Day 1 – Ljubljana-Villach-Salzburg

After arranging tickets and accommodation I waited for the beginning of the adventure. At work, I ate ćevapi for energy, left the office at 3pm, bought beer for 3€ at the station, and turned on vacation mode.

The first train from Ljubljana to Villach (3€ to Jesenice with discount) had an 18-minute delay, 80% full with ok equipment. In Jesenice, we had a long stop for border control and a change of crew and locomotive. It started to rain. After the tunnel in Austria, I should use the coupon for the first time. But nobody checked on the whole trip tickets.

This delay caused me to miss the next train to Salzburg. At the counter, they were helpful, and I got a free bottle of water. Until the next train, I had 2 hours to spend in Villach. I got lucky, it didn’t rain despite the forecast. I went for a stroll from the station to the old town. On return, I stopped at a local brewery for one beer, 4.6€.

At the station, I was waiting again. This train was late 13 minutes. It was full, with many reservations, and basic equipment. I ate one homemade sandwich. Two-hour ride among mountains and tunnels. The waiter was there so I used his services, beer for 4.6€.

Finally, I was in Salzburg. This time I had no luck. As we arrived storm started. The train stopped 100m from the covered station. I ran but still, I was soaking wet. I waited at the station but it didn’t get any better. Then I took a taxi, 10€ for 500m but options were limited, b. A&O was a nice hostel 36+2€. I had one beer before turning in, 5€. The room was full, all sleeping already. I woke them with bed preparation.

Day 2 Salzburg-Munchen-Bodensee-Chur

I woke up, packed, checked out, and ate a homemade sandwich. I was ready for a walk at 7 am. From the station, I went over beautiful Hellbrunn Palace Park into the old town with nice colorful houses (Mozart) and still closed shops. Now I went uphill to the castle. The hill was quite steep, but from the top, I had a nice view. I didn’t pay the entrance fee because of the holiday? I returned back to the city and moved over the cemetery and the tunnel into a resident area to Stigel Brewery. But it was not open yet. On my way to the station, it was time for Stigel beer at the Italian place, 5.3€.

Train toward Munchen was on time.  Best so far. On our way we stopped for some disruptions and got to Munchen late 18 minutes. Here I used coupons for the first time and almost paid for the ticket because I didn’t enter the current date on the coupon.

In Munich, it was crowded, and hot, with many bums. I made a walk around, from less crowded to crowded and green areas. I sat for a beer 4.7€ in another Italian place and took a long break. Back to the station I almost ran. Now onward to Boden see with regional train, crowded, standing. One family of six was standing out of the crowd. We had to change the train before arrival. Now we had a lot of long stops on our way. Flat land outside.

I arrived in Landau Insel 1 hour late and one station earlier. Ferries for that day were finished. A short walk around and back to the station. There was no time for even a quick swim or beer. Now 4 more trains to Chur. First by OBB to Bregenz, Austria, on a new, basic, on-time, local train. The second train was the same, to St Margrethen, Swiss. Third to Sargans and last to Chur, were old, but on time. Mountains begin to appear. I got an SMS, no more internet, 60 € spent for 6 Mb in Swiss. Didn’t know that. If I am not paying for trains …

I was now hungry and searched for an open place in Chur, but no luck. I got late in the hostel-previous jail, self-check-in, showered and ordered a beer with corn chips for 12.5 CHF (13 €), some confusion. I moved around the old town. I found one bar open – Lila, b, moved around to another bar and talked to a German ex-soldier, beer was 9 CHF. At the kebab place beer was 5 CHF, and cigarettes from the vending machine were 9.2 CHF. There I met an Eritrean guy. We had a long debate. I returned to the hostel around 4 am.

Day 3 Chur-Bernina railway-Tirano-Colico-Milano

The alarm clock woke me at 9 am. It was not an easy morning. Ate a plum, got free coffee, and moved to the train station. I bought 1. class ticket (56€ with a 50 % discount) for Bernina at 13:34.

I had extra time and moved by cable car from town into the hills, 35€ return ticket, and got free ice-T there. At the top (big and small gondola) there were many mountain bikers. I found a cottage and ordered there 2 beers and langos, 25.5€. There I talked to the Hungarian manager. Some nice views before turning back.

At the station, I paid 1.5 CHF for the toilet. Non-reserved seats in 1. class wouldn’t be worth the money difference. But I was alone, walked barefeet, opened windows, and moved between seats for optimal views. And there were some great views.

After more than 4 hours of this panoramic experience, I had to find out how I would transfer to Milano. With clerck help, I found bus to Colico for 6.6 € after 20 minutes.

In Colico I took the train after 15 minutes. I ran from the bus and dropped cigarettes, coupon not used again. Full of kids and Indian folks that were at the lake. Everyone was tired. In Milano, the 4* Berna hotel was 2 minutes away from the station, 75+5€. At check-in, I got a few cigarettes and a free minibar. After showering, I was out for dinner, pizza, and 1 liter beer, 29.5€. I bought cigarettes on the street, all was closed for the holiday. I returned tired to a good bed.

Day 4 Milano-Piacenza-Parma-Bologna

I didn’t get up early, stayed in bed longer, and decided I didn’t need to see Milano again. For breakfast, I had cornetto and macchiato, 5.5€.

At the station to train for Piacenza, 1. class 3 seats per row. After 1 hour we arrived a bit late. I took a quick stroll in the old town before mowing to Parma.

This was a nice double-decker regional train, quite empty. We arrived at Parma in half an hour, coupon used. I walked into the old town and checked the market, cathedral, and additional churches before crossing the river Parma and entering Ducale Park. I rested there with a small beer, 5 €. It started to blow before the storm. I just got to the train station before it started raining heavily.

I boarded the last train that day, it was a few minutes late, 1-hour ride, regional, and a kid from hell sitting close by. I visited Bologna after 24 years if I don’t count the flight this year from the airport there. I walked from the station to the great apartment I rented, in the old town, clean, and cheap 68 €. The host left me water and wine. He also made me a dinner reservation.

After some rest, I walked to the restaurant Franco Rossi. Good food, antipasti bresaola and burrata, primi piatti tagliattele alla ragu and secondi piati lamb chops with potatoes. The last one was best for me. I had some water, red wine, and grappa for digestivo. It was not cheap, 60 €.

I was not sleepy so I wandered around town. It was getting harder and harder to find an open place. Finished at Bombocrep dei Fondatori, good pancakes. I was late again in bed.

Day 5 Bologna (IKEA)-Noventa di Piave-Gradisca d’Isonzo-Ljubljana

Last day I woke up after a few hours of sleep, cramping, packing, shower, and coffee. I took around Bologna and then to IKEA to meet Borut and Miriam. Part with bus (2€), rest of path walking, 1h in the sun. At IKEA I bought a broom and dustpan (2 €).

We drove next to an outlet with Designer shops, parking was a challenge, and roundabouts. I bought CK socks there for 16 €. The last stop was at Gradisca d’Isonzo, for pizza and beer, Borut paid.

There was some heavy traffic in Slovenia, so I dozed off a bit. Borut delivered me home at 22h. An interesting twist for the last day.

Summary

This trip was meant as Bernina Express experience but I was altogether on 14 trains (1000 km) in 4 countries, paid just Bernina part with a discount, 56 €. In most countries trains were late, the worst was in Germany and the best in Swiss. There was one bus ride in Italy (6.6€, 70km, 90min). The taxi in Salzburg was 10 €, Borut drove me from Bologna to Ljubljana (380km, 8h with many long stops-IKEA, shopping, dinner, he paid all expenses, except Miram paid toll). Also, the cable car return ticket in Chur was 36 €. So the transport costs were around 100 €, mostly because of FIP tickets. I walked 60 km on this trip.

Accommodation was in range from hostel (38€ Salzbur, 46€ Chur) to 4* hotel (78€ Milano) and rented apartment (68€ Bologna). Those 230€ were well spent, in all places I felt OK. I spent little on food, 2 homemade sandwiches, Chur tortilla chips (6€), plums, langos (12€), pizza (in Milano 14€, Gradisca d’Isonzo), savory pancakes (8€) and fancy dinner in Bologna (66€) – total 106€. For beer, I paid from 3 to 14€, and water was free in accommodation or in street spins. Cigarettes were 6.5€ to 10€. Misc things (broom 2€, souvenirs 13€, socks 12€).

FIP tickets

After one year of working for a railway company in Europe, you have a possibility to travel for free. First, you must pay 10€ for a membership card (renew yearly). I ordered and 2 days later got a card at the railway station from a nice lady. Also, you can order it online. With just that you get up to 75% discount on the ticket, depending on railway or even ferry. Just a few railways offer discounts to family members, and retired workers, … I got a 50% discount on Bernina Express (a private company). Now you can buy coupons for individual railway companies. Agin at station ordered and picked up 2 days later or online. In a year you can buy up to six coupons. Each time they issue coupons (1 or 6) you pay 10€ for administration costs. In my case, I took 4 for main railways in Austria, Germany, Swiss and Italy. Each coupon has 4 traveling days. In 48 hour window you can use up to 3 trains. So I could use up to 48 rides in 3 months (validity of coupons). It is not applicable on some special trains, like fast ones, those taking you to the airport …