NOA Chef’s Hall in Tallinn
NOA Chef’s Hall (NCH) in Tallinn is a restaurant that got first Michelin star in the country together with 1800 in 2022. It is part of restaurant family managed by Tõnis Siigur. The head chef for many years is Roman Sidorov, and the sommelier is Alexei Pogrebnoi (best Baltic sommelier in 2023). They are open from Wednesday to Saturday, 18:00-24:00. Booking is a must. Plan at least 3 hours for a multi-course tasting menu.
I was on my trip to Lapland, and on my return, I wanted to treat myself a bit with an 8-course degustation menu at this restaurant. It’s located on the other side of Tallinn bay (Ranna tee 3, Pirita linnaosa, Phone +372 5080589, E-mail [email protected]). From the terrace, you would be overlooking the old town on the other side. On my visit, it was snowing, so it was different, quite feel at the garden.
After you enter the place, they take you to a lounge where you can try some of the cocktails with amuse bouche. You will get 3 distinctive pastry bites: scallop tartlet | smoky beef croustade | choux & truffle. I ordered a white truffle Negroni (18€) before I knew what we would eat. So I would say too many truffles. With smokines I prefered second one then tarlet with rhubarb. Presentation was on pediestal representing a tree from the garden. Small confusion with SMS.
In the main room, equipped with wood and other natural materials, they have space for some 25-30 guests. I opted for a special place at the chef’s table, where I was in the middle of the action. But before I got to my seat, for the first course (CARROT, umeboshi, leek, elk) I was at the grill side of the kitchen where flambadou technique (wagyu fat was heated into bursting flames) was used for smokey taste and show.
Next was BREAD | ash hay . butter . beurre noisette. Salted rye bread was enhanced with butter, butter sauce, and ash
For HAMACHI CRUDO | tomato . blood orange . wasabi I got served Sparkling Sake . Junmai Ginjo . Ninki-Ichi . Fukushima . Japan. This Far East inspired course was covered in nitrogen fog and later consumed as a whole from the skewer, and you then drank the sauce from the plate.
ARCTIC CHAR | chestnut . timur berry . seabuckthorn beurre blanc was paired with 2017 Trebbiano . “Massifitti” Suavia . Veneto . Italy. Additionally, Rossini Oscietra Gold caviar was added (30€). Another dish with fish. In all its complexity, I liked crisp skin and citrus notes from the sauce and wine to mildness of caviar. I took a short pause for a smoke and a call before continuing on.
ONION | lamb rillette . amantillado . gruyere . brioche was paired with 2021 Tavel . “Beaurevoir” Chapoutier . Rhone Valley . France. With this meal onion was put in front, but still lamb on the side was the reason I ate all the bread.
R75 | rhubarb . lime caviar . champagne. A sorbet with bubbly. Time for another break.
PIGEON | BBQ . peas • madeira . vadouvan paired with 2019 Newton Johnson “Granum” . Walker Bay . South Africa. Here we had two parts, the first was one bite from the leg, and the second was breast with peas with French curry sauce.
OLIVE | strawberry . almond . elder . maldon paired with 2017 Domaine Rotier “Renaissance” . Gaillac . South-West France. This was for sure highlite of the night. Tree layers on their own were functional, maybe a bit raw in combining bitter, salty, and sweet. But with this wine, it transformed into something new on the next level. No wonder they got rewarded for this pairing.
We are finishing with petit four confections, 4 different bites: madelein | plum | pomegranate | blood. I ordered La Calvados by Christian Drouin, France. Different tastes in combination with a strong apple spirit.
I got into conversation with the staff and ordered one more drink, aged Grappa di Sassicaia. After almost four hours, I was the last to leave this place. Now it came to payment. Food menu was 169€, wine pairing was 125€ (also available for 230€), cocktail at the beginning 13€, caviar 30€ (not charged), two bottles of water 12€, two digestives at the end 44€. It all amounted to 364€ (50€ deposit paid on booking). It was the most expensive Michelin-starred restaurant so far, and some had 2 and 3 stars. From begining 290€ you quickly get an extra 100€ with constant upselling. But I liked the experience as a whole, otherwise I wouldn’t have tipped them 50€.
I will try to summarize the whole evening at the NOA Chef’s Hall. At a haute cuisine restaurant, you expect quality in all aspects: place, ingredients, wine, techniques, presentation, story, service … In my opinion, NCH had it all. Location with its view or quietness in the snow, warm, uncluttered interior with an open kitchen. Ingredients were of high quality, some locally foraged like seasonal vegetables and fish, to some luxurious like golden caviar, edible gold, and truffles, combined into innovative and unique dishes. Wine should complement the food, which was done, and in one case, it was done superbly. They creatively used in their preparation many different techniques, from classical French sauce to local (sauna), and rediscovered techniques like flambadou (smoke and fire) and nitrogen for the theatrical aspect. Each dish was presented in a unique way with precision for the details. To sell all this, you need a story that connects the dots, and they did it. Their great staff was experienced, passionate, and attentive. With their presence, you got relaxed, welcoming feeling, and at the same time, you are taken care of in a professional manner.
For me best choice was to pick up a seat at the “Chef’s table”. Here I could see magic happening. Also, from Chef Roman to sommelier Alexei and all the waiters, everyone would take some time to chat with me. We would cover topics from meal description, their routine, planning, food or wine passion, to other more common topics. I hope I was not too much attention seeking for them. I got the menu signed by the chef as a souvenir. So, the staff would be ingridient that made this experience exceptional. As for food, it was that pairing (olive) that was special. Minus was a higher price than I am used to, but that didn’t spoil the overall feeling.
If you are in Tallinn, you are a foodie and not tight on budget, this is the place to visit.
