National park Brioni

Brijuni is an archipelago on the west coast of Istria, opposite the town of Fažana (2 km). It consists of 14 smaller islands: Veliki Brion (7 km²), Mali Brion (1.7 km²), and the smaller Sveti Marko, Gaz, Obljak, Supin, Galija, Grunj, Vanjski, Pusti Otok (Madona), Vrsar, Sveti Jerolim, Vanga (Krasnica) and Kotež.

Brijuni has been inhabited for 5,000 years. Today we find there the remains of ancient times, the period of the Republic of Venice and the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Two people are responsible for today’s park. The first was Paul Kupelwieser, who bought the archipelago at the end of the 19th century and, with the help of Alojz Čufar and Robert Koch, transformed the island of Veliki Brion into a beautiful tourist complex and got rid of malaria in the archipelago. The second was Josip Broz – Tito. After World War II, he arranged a fashionable protocol complex, which hosted many politicians (Nehru, Naser, Haile Selasi, …) and celebrities (Sofia Loren, Elizabeth Tailor, Richard Burton, Orson Wells, …). According to Plečnik’s plan, a pavilion was built here. In 1956, the Constitution of the Non-Aligned and the 1991 Agreement between Slovenia and the Yugoslav People’s Army were signed here.

My experience

After preparing an apartment in Barbariga for 1 week, I decided to go on a trip somewhere on the last day. The decision falls on Brijuni. During the day it is 35 degrees and I prefer to wait for the afternoon when the temperature outside is more moderate. I drove to Fažana (15 min). I parked there and paid for parking (7 HRK per hour, a total of 35 HRK; you need coins or a card).

I buy a ticket for 200 HRK in the office of NP Brioni (only a ticket and a visit to the park, for guidance in HRV / ANG / NEM / ITA language and train ride you pay 250 HRK). You can also buy a ticket online. Since I am without a guide, I downloaded the Brijuni Pocket Guide application to my phone beforehand. We left at 17:00, the timetable is on the link.

We reached Veli Brijun in 15 minutes by boat of the same name. First I asked where I can rent some means of transport because the island is quite large. A bicycle (HRK 50 per hour, HRK 200 per day), an electric scooter (HRK 80 per hour), and an electric car (HRK 300 per hour and HRK 1500 per day) are available. Details on the link for bicycles and electric vehicles.

I opt for an electric scooter for an hour because it’s still hot. Maybe it wasn’t the best choice? It staggered up the hill with my weight. It flies down on the slope. But the problem is the road, which is cracked due to roots and potholes in some places. At one hump I stuck with those little wheels and I barely got out without a scratch. So yes, if I go ever again I will opt for a bike.

I told myself I wasn’t going to look at any map and I was going to explore a little. After 10 minutes I arrived to the bay of Verige, where are the remains of a Roman villa with thermal baths and temples from the 1st century BC. It is also an ideal place for swimming. On the way back, I stop in the Mediterranean Garden. Here, on an area of 17,000 m2, you will find 169 plant species planted in a beautiful setting according to the plans of Alojz Čufar. Rabbits are jumping around.

On the way back to the starting point, I decide to drive to the far north while I still have the scooter. I drove to Safari Park, almost 3 km away. Along the way there is an old golf course full of peacocks. When the door opens, I drove past the fences where there are zebras, ostriches, Istrian cattle and donkeys, and various members of cattle and deer.

At the far end of the park is the entrance to Dinosaur Park. Here on the coast, we find prints of three-toed dinosaurs Theropoda, which are thought to have roamed here 100 million years ago. However, the whole park is untidy and poorly marked. There are said to be over 200 such prints in the entire archipelago. However, it takes a little imagination to recognize the footprints.

When I returned, I also return the scooter. It was longer than an hour, but they do not charge me additional costs. I deserved a break and stopped for a beer at the buffet Café-bar Školjka (27 HRK). Tito’s Cadillac drove by. I walked past the Tito Museum and went to the pheasantry, where the most recognizable of the birds is the cockatoo Koki. This one is supposed to be eloquent but on my arrival, he ate some nut and couldn’t be bothered.

I went to the last point, the Byzantine castrum in the bay of Dobrika. There are remains on 1 ha from the period of the 1st century BC to the Venetian Republic. I enjoyed being there alone at sunset. On the way back there is a meadow where various deer roamed. Along the way, I pick up a couple of peacock feathers as a gift for family.

I still had more than half an hour until the departure of the boat, so I sat down on the terrace of the Hotel Neptun. I order a beer and Kupelwieser’s cake, a kind of pie with wild berries (47 HRK). It was time to leave and again 15 minutes by boat and 15 minutes by car to arrive home.

Summary

Big Brion is worth a visit. There is an abundance of historical remains, interesting flora, and fauna, opportunities for various recreation and culinary experiences. If I decide to ever visit the island again I will do so in the fall when there are fewer tourists and the sea is still warm. I’m going on a full-day trip. I will rent a bike as a means of transportation. Maybe I’ll take also a guided train tour. Then I will ride my bike to a beach. I will treat myself to a meal in the afternoon and enjoy peace in the evening in more remote locations when there are even fewer visitors.

It is also possible to sleep on the island. Rooms Karmen starts at a price of 100 € for a single room with breakfast. Hotel Neptun costs at least € 135 for the same room. Hotel Istra has only double rooms, where the cheapest is € 215. For those who really want luxury and exclusivity, it is possible to rent Villa Lovorka with its own beach, spa, and much more for 8 people. The price is just € 2,800.