Dolenjska – best 9

Dolenjska (Lower Carniola) is a region in the southeast of Slovenia, between Ljubljana and Croatia, bordered by river Kolpa in the south, river Sava in the north, and Gorjanci hills in the east. Here we are going to focus on core Dolenjska and leave out Bela krajina and Kočevje-Ribnica part. Unfairly it is neglected by tourists in comparison to other regions. Here I will try to show 9 interesting attractions and hopefully lure you to this region. If you ask me to describe Dolenjska with 5 words it would be Krka, cviček, castles, churches, and spas.

Green Krka river runs through the middle of the region. In the summertime is popular for swimming and kayaking. In the upper stream, tufa is collecting on river bed forming small rapids.

Next, I mentioned cviček, a wine that can be found all around Dolenjska. This is a dry red acid wine made from red and white grapes with a low alcohol percentage (up to 10%). Many vineyard cottages (zidanica) can be found near vineyard where you can enjoy drinking cviček and eating homemade salami.

This is region of castles. Here you can find castles from medival times onward, some in ruins other still in use.

People here are religious and here are many churches, monasteries, chapels, from gothic to baroque style.

Among natural resources here are common mineral springs considered to have health-giving properties. So you can enjoy in one of many spas there.

Novo mesto

Novo mesto is the seventh-largest city in Slovenia with over 36,000 inhabitants the capital of the province of Dolenjska and the seat of the university and Roman Catholic Diocese. The old town from the 14th century is circular in shape with a radius of about 250 m, stands on a rocky limestone peninsula. It is surrounded by a slow green Krka river bend. The main spots to visit there are top of the hill Kapitelj with st. Nicolas church, Breg and remainings of the wall, Main square with Townhall, fountain, arcade houses, Kandilj bridge.

Kostanjevica na Krki

Kostanjevica na Krki is a town on a small island 500 meters by 200 meters in the middle of the river Krka. It is one of oldest (since 1252 status of town) and smallest (703 inhabitants) town in the country. This “Venice of Lower Carniola” is protected as a cultural and historical monument. On the island, you have two one-way roads, 3 rows of houses in between, 2 churches (one on each end), and 3 bridges. To the north, you have Krakov forest – primeval forest reserve and to south Božidar Jakac gallery in the castle

Otočec

Otočec Castle (German Burg Wördl), a cultural monument from the 13th century, is located on one of the islands of the river Krka, 10 km from Novo mesto. It was many times rebuilt, last time after WWII when it was burned down. Today it is a 5-star hotel with 10 rooms and great restaurants that is used as a weddings venue. Here you can enjoy the castle, park next to it or golf course.

Žužemberk

Žužemberk Castle (Seisenburg, Sosenberch) is located on a terrace above the river Krka in the village of the same name. Some proofs are that it was built in the year 1000. Since then it changed many owners and it was rocketed in WWII. In the last 50 years, it is partially renewed. Today you can visit a castle for Medieval days or Lynx exhibition, depicted on the coat of arms and recently repopulated in woods of the region. At the riverbank below the castle, you can swim, play beach volley, SUP, etc .

Stična cisterian abby

Stična Abby was built by Cistercians in the 12th century and today is the oldest working Abby in Slovenia. It was working since then except in the 18th century when Abbies were abolished. Today there is a Museum of Christianity in Slovenia and a parish of Stična. They organize Stična mladih, a youth festival. There is also a pharmacy with herbal teas prepared by famous receipts by late father Ašič.

Pleterje Carthusian monastery

Pleterje monastery was established by the Carthusian order at beginning of the 15th century. This is the strictest orders in the catholic church that live by strict rules (silence, seclusion, ascetic life). So you can not visit the monastery. But on the outside, you can visit a chapel. In a gothic church, there is a presentation about life there. The tour must be ordered upfront. The price per person is 5 € including the open-air museum of farmers’ life. In a shop, you can buy Carthusian products. They are famous for their pear spirit.

Devil’s Tower

In Soteska settlement there is the Devil’s Tower from baroque painted with an illusionist composition, two floors connected by stone spiral staircases. There is a legend about a cruel lord abusing his power that is a reason for its name. Because it is extremely acoustic it serves as a venue for concerts. Outside there is a swing on the only tree. Close by there are ruins of medieval castle Soteska.

Klevevž natural spa

Klevevž is a natural spa first mentioned by Janez Vajkard Valvasor in his Glory of the Duchy of Carniola. The Radulja stream in the middle stream creates a breakthrough gorge with smaller waterfalls, followed by a pool filled with spring water with a temperature of 24.8 C. A 100 meters lower there is a water mill. On top of the hill, there are ruins of the castle burned in WWII. Also, two caves are there with some endemic animals and prehistoric pottery.

Kozolci (hay racks) museum

A hayrack (Slovene: kozolec) vertical rack for drying hay and grain on Slovenian farms, made of wood. It is part of Slovene architectural identity. In Šentrupert there is an open-air museum “Land of Hayracks” with the collection of 19 hay drying devices (single kozolec, double toplak, and other). In a village, there is also a gothic church of Saint Rupert.

1 day visiting Dolenjska itenirary

To make a day trip from Ljubljana to Dolenjska I would suggest the itinerary below. You should start early in the morning and late in the afternoon, you would be back. But if you want a less intense day pick up just 2 or 3 locations and make your own combination.

• Stična Abby – early in the morning walk around, maybe visit a museum, buy some tea
• Žužembrk – visit the castle and descend to the river
• Devil’s Tower – stop on your way to try the swing or check the ruins covered in ivy
• Novo mesto – walk around the old town, visit churches, sit in a bar at the main square with a glass of cviček
• Otočec – walk to the castle and around, if you are gourmet try The Plate Michelin at their restaurant
• Pleterje – check the gothic church and museum, buy some pear schnaps
• Kostanjevica na Krki – make a circle around the town, lunch at Kmečki hram if you are for traditional food
• Klevevž – after long they relax at the natural spa and if some energy left climb to castle ruins or caves
• Šentrupert – last stop to check these traditional structures and gothic church