Crvena zvezda vs Partizan 2025
We visited this derbi in 2022 first time. Blaž would like to take his son Maks to the game I joined and took my nephew Edin along. First, we wanted to get tickets through some connections but in the end, we bought them online, a ticket was around 10 € (1200 RSD). With some difficulty, I woke up on Saturday at 4 am. We waited for each other before Blaž drove toward Belgrade.

On our way, we stopped at the gas station in Croatia, a nice sunrise. We crossed the border smoothly. The next stop was in Sremka Mitrovica. We took a walk there, parking payment (60 RSD, 0,5€, cigarettes 570 RSD 5€, 4x banana bars were 100 RSD, 1€) was a challenge. We checked Roman ruins (300 RSD ticket, 2,5€, souvenirs 700 RSD, 6€) before continuing.

In Belgrade, Blaž parked his volvo at Kalemegdan (450 RSD, 4€). After walking around Fort we moved to the center, Knez Mihailova, and Skadarlija. We went for lunch at 3 šešira, a tourist trap but with good food. For meals and drinks with tip, we paid 115€. I had veal under the “sač”, croquets, šobska salad and Jelen beer. The big portion I hardly manage.

We moved to Crystal Hotel (88€ double room per night with breakfast, 5€ tax, 18€ parking), settled in our rooms, took a shower and it was time to move on. To Marakana aka Rajko Mitić stadium, it took us 20 minutes walk. We passed the tank in the crowds before entering. I paid for drinks 900 RSD. Our seats were on the west stands at the top, a bit to the right.
There were a lot of tourists like us, mostly coming here for the atmosphere created by ultras on both sides. Delije on the Red Star side had nicer choreography, but Grobari on the Partizan side were louder in the first half even though they were weaker in numbers. Delije put on songs: anthem Crvena zvezda and “Ima sam” by KOBE with his picture, first was on game with Barcelona in 1996. Banners “Najjači smo, najjači” and “Sa tobom sam grade ja ko dete rastao …” – 25 years of Belgrade Boys. Grobari had picture of Zoran Vujović.

Before the game even began ultras fans were already there, cheering. Crvena Zvezda played better but Partizan scored early in the game. Home time had possession but didn’t realize none of the chances until the end of the first half. In the second half, there was much more action. In the first 15 minutes, there were 4 goals and now the home team was in the lead 3:2. We went out before extra time and as we walked past the stadium Partizan scored equalizer from a penalty after a VAR check.

We walked back to the hotel. A short stop in the shop on our way (1400 RSD, 12€). Before returning to our rooms we went to a rooftop restaurant for a drink (1400 RSD, 12€), a nice view, and weird noise. In the evening I met with Ana in Guta for a drink. We met “at Horse” in Republic Square, a taxi was 700 RSD 6€. We went to a bar just as we sat down live music started, Zajčersko pivo. We walked around in search of a bar. On our way, we stopped at a bakery for a dessert called Žito sa šlagom “wheat with cream”. Later on, we sat in another bar where we could talk about our life, Serbia, World, … I couldn’t pay anything. They drove me to a hotel as their kids were home alone.

The next morning we took it slowly. We went for a good breakfast in the hotel. Blaž and Maks went for a quick walk to Sv Sava. After checkout, they drove our car from the garage and we were on our way. One stop at a gas station in Serbia, 7l of gasoline was 1400RSD 12€. One more stop at the gas station in Croatia, some rain on our way. Quick border crossing between Serbia-Croatia, but they check again documents between Croatia and Slovenia. At 2pm we were already at home.

It’s interesting how you mixed historical sightseeing with the intense sports atmosphere of the derby. Do you think the balance between culture and sport made the trip more memorable?